Seaming References

“What seam should I use when sewing my SAORI cloth?”

I’ve developed a simple chart to help you determine which seam to use when sewing your SAORI cloth. This chart is especially useful when using the Japanese pattern books since the “pictures are in English1” but the words are in Japanese. The pictures clearly show measurements, cut lines, and sewing lines but don’t specifically say what type of seam to use. This chart will help you to make that determination.

To use the chart, determine if the edges you are sewing are raw/unfinished edges or selvage/finished edges. A fringe edge that you are using in your design is considered a finished edge. The Reference column shows the page number for the description of the seam in the SAORI Self-Innovation Through Free Weaving book. If there is a second number in the reference column, it is the page number for The Beginners’ SAORI Clothing Design book (English).

1 At the 2014 Saori Conference in Peachtree City, GA, Kenzo Jo made a comment referring to the Japanese books that “the words are in Japanese but all the pictures are in English.”

“What seam should I use when sewing my SAORI cloth?”

I’ve developed a simple chart to help you determine which seam to use when sewing your SAORI cloth. This chart is especially useful when using the Japanese pattern books since the “pictures are in English1” but the words are in Japanese. The pictures clearly show measurements, cut lines, and sewing lines but don’t specifically say what type of seam to use. This chart will help you to make that determination.

To use the chart, determine if the edges you are sewing are raw/unfinished edges or selvage/finished edges. A fringe edge that you are using in your design is considered a finished edge. The Reference column shows the page number for the description of the seam in the SAORI Self-Innovation Through Free Weaving book. If there is a second number in the reference column, it is the page number for The Beginners’ SAORI Clothing Design book (English).

1 At the 2014 Saori Conference in Peachtree City, GA, Kenzo Jo made a comment referring to the Japanese books that “the words are in Japanese but all the pictures are in English.”

Saori top with fringe
Edge FinishesSeam TypeNotesReference
2 Selvage Edges — sewn together at a shoulder, side, or other outside edge.Superimposed Seam (Preferred Method)In SAORI, the selvage edges are typically sewn to the outside.100
10
2 Selvage Edges — sewn together to make a larger piece of cloth, or at a center front, center back, or other inside seam.Intersecting SeamOPTIONAL double-seam method: Sew the seam very near the selvage edge on one side of the cloth following the edge of the cloth. Turn the piece over and sew again down the opposite selvage edge, again following the edge of the cloth.100
10
1 Selvage Edge & 1 Raw Edge — often used when attaching a jacket yoke to the back of the jacket.Welt Seam 100
2 Raw Edges — This is the seam that is often found on the side of jeans.Flat Fell Seam 101
2 Raw Edges — Especially good for very lightweight fabrics.French Seam 100
Any 2 Edges — where you do not want the edges or seamed cloth to show. Also for use when making darts, gussets, and other shaping techniques.Traditional SeamNOTE: if you are sewing raw edges in a traditional seam that will not be covered by lining fabric, then the edges will still need to be finished. 
1 Raw Edge — like at the bottom of a garment or around an armhole or neck opening.HemmingOPTION: If your fabric is too bulky for a nice hem, you can use a hem tape to cut down on the amount of the fabric in the hem.101
11

This document was created by Sarah Dauro at Handmade Saori Weaving Studio. You may freely distribute this document in paper or PDF format as long as you retain the www.handmadesaori.com link, contact information, and this notice.

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